Zion Traverse: The Ultimate Guide for Your Through Hike

The Zion Traverse in Zion National Park is a must-do for adventurers. Plan your through hike with this Ultimate Guide.

Nothing clears my head better than a long endurance event.  When I was invited to hike the Zion Traverse in Zion National Park in Utah, I knew this was just what I needed.

Zion Traverse: Logistics

On April 26th, 2019, we set out to hike from Lee Pass Trailhead and end at Angel’s Landing.  The official Zion Traverse is 50 miles, but I was not upset when we decided to shave off around 10 miles.  Our plan was to hike straight through the evening and arrive at Angel’s Landing by sunrise.

Around 4 pm on April 26th, we entered Zion National Park and began our trek at Lee Pass.  It felt amazing to be in the wilderness among friends and spectacular scenery.  Let the therapy begin.

• Park one car in Springdale, Utah as close as you can to Zion National Park Visitor Center.
  • There are overnight paid lots ($10-$20)
• Drive to Lee Pass Trailhead

It’s about 56 road miles and 90 minutes of drive time from Springdale to Lee Pass Trailhead.

Best Travel Time is April – May or September – October.

A few miles into the trip, we came across a pair of hikers by Laverken Creek who were a little shaken.  They forged several waste deep, swiftly moving creek crossings and had reached their breaking point.  They turned around after they felt it was too dangerous to continue.

We approached the first swiftly moving water crossing and the sun was beginning to set.  

Since we are all reasonable people and in no way should we seek out to cross dangerous river crossings in the middle of the night, I figured we’d had a good go and would turn around.  Except that we aren’t reasonable and just forged ahead.  After Nathan was almost swept away, we elected to search for a safer place to cross.

After finding a tamer spot, we assembled a line and slowly made our way across the water, holding on to each other’s packs, facing up stream and side stepping.  I guess we won’t be sipping whiskey beside a pool tonight.

Zion Traverse: Water Sources

Water can be a little tricky. Check Zion National Park water source information for the status of water sources.

After a good snow year, water will be plentiful in spring due to snowmelt. Hop Valley flows most of the year, but it’s best to avoid entirely as this area is grazed.

LaVerkin Creek, Northfork, and The Grotto Trailhead all have water sources.

Zion Traverse: Hop Valley

We turned right on Hop Valley Trail and gained elevation, avoiding the treacherous river crossings that our fellow hikers encountered.  Hop Valley was beautiful.  Steep cliffs surrounded wide streams and pastures.

Pro Tip: Lots of sand. Consider gaitors, although not sure they would really help 🙂

The sun went down around 830pm and darkness enveloped us.  I imagined the stars and moon would light up the surroundings.  No such luck.  Stars were amazing, but no moon.

A moment of panic struck and adrenaline coursed through me when I saw two blue eyes staring at me beside the trail.  Mountain lion.  Wait.  No, just deer.  I felt relief, but I made sure to position myself in the middle of the group, just in case.

We hiked the majority of the trip in the dark.  Whose idea was to do this in the dark anyways?  

There were multiple muddy, sandy river crossings, areas of snow drifts, and some uncertainty of finding clear water to purify.  Around 2 am, I felt my friend delirium creep in.  I sipped Coke-a-Cola and wondered why I was doing this trip.  I could be in a nice, soft, warm bed right now.

Pro Tip:

• Bring frozen Coke-a-Cola or 5 hour energy shots for the 2-3 am slump. If you are a caffeine-drinker, slowly wean yourself off prior to the trip. Your body will respond even better to the caffeine boost.

Talks of plowing fields, Farmer’s Only dating sites, and insightful questions like “What are you thinking?” entertained our minds as our bodies ached and feet were squishing in our sandy, wet shoes.

We hummed along and then approached what would be the most treacherous river crossing of the trip.

Seventeen miles in, we were committed.  

No turning back now.  I was the last one to cross as I held on to a tree branch with one hand and a hiking pole with the other.

What was I thinking?  I was thinking this was stupid and what the hell was I doing?  Cold water and adrenaline woke me up.  We all made it across safely.  A few more hours till sunrise.

Even though we hiked the entire middle portion in the dark, I was told the beginning and the end of trip were the most scenic parts of the trail.  Although I really can’t compare, the last several miles approaching Angel’s Landing were truly spectacular.  

The rising sun lifted our spirits as we soaked in the scenery.  We didn’t reach Angel’s Landing by sunrise and there were loads of people making their way to the top.  We opted for In and Out Burger instead of waiting in the line to Angel’s Landing.

I enjoyed people-watching as hundreds of tourists slowly made their way up to Angel’s Landing.  I felt a sense of satisfaction, exhaustion and hunger as we completed 40 miles in Zion in 17 hours.  My feet survived unscathed (for the most part) and my mind and body felt more centered.  Surviving an endurance trip was good therapy.

Pro Tip: We took the shuttle from Angel’s Landing Trailhead to the Zion National Park Visitor Center.

Lessons Learned in Zion

• Sometimes it’s best to listen to music and not engage in farming + plowing conversations with strangers on a plane.
• It was easier to hike in the dark; I stayed hydrated and cool most of the trip, conserving energy.
• Toe socks and Body Glide minimized my blisters.  
  • I would take at least 3 pairs of socks.  I only took two.
• We lucked out with water.  A lot of the streams were muddy, but we were able to find plenty of clear streams in the middle of the hike.  
  • This is unpredictable.  
  • Would recommend stashing water for through hikers or runners.
• Hiking from Lee Pass to Angel’s Landing made it easy to bail at mile 40 because of the shuttle.
• Would read recent trip reports prior to hiking the Zion Traverse.  We ignored them, but survived anyway.
• Swift river crossings are never wise to cross. Even less so in the dark.
• Do your research.  
  • Additional sites:  Trip Logistics- Andrew Skurka  and  Clever Hiker – Zion Traverse

Zion is gorgeous and well worth the hike!  I plan to go back and hike to Angel’s Landing.  Perhaps I’ll decide to overnight it and enjoy the scenery a little more.

For my gear list and training plan on all through – hikes, get your Ultimate Grand Canyon Guide HERE