Rim to Rim to Rim, Death March Part 1: The First 21

On June 1st, 2013 at 1240 am, I embarked on a journey in which I hadn’t the faintest idea of what I was about to endure. It was simultaneously the most miserable and life-changing experience of my life.

The objective was to hike rim to rim to rim (R2R2R) in the Grand Canyon in less than 24 hours on the South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail. Specifically, this entailed hiking 42 miles with approximately 20,000 feet of elevation change.  

What prompts someone to do this (of their own free will)? Let me give you a brief background. Growing up, my parents took me and my two siblings on many, many hiking trips. We explored the Great Smoky Mountains and numerous other National Parks, including the Grand Canyon. I absolutely fell in love with mountains and hiking. Adventure was something I enjoyed; however, I’ve since learned (with my whole being) there are varying definitions of “adventure.”

Combine my “sense of adventure” with a new-found friend that likes to “challenge” the status quo and I find myself signing up for R2R2R with people I barely know. Let me also add that I recently purchased new, lightweight hiking boots that I had broken in for a few weeks prior to beginning this trek. What could go wrong? After all, I’m essentially just going for a long walk.

This is the crew before R2R2R.

So at 12:40 am on June 1st, 2013, seven friends start down the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Two of our members, Brian and Mary, immediately take off down the trail. I thought I was a fast hiker, but I had nothing on these folks. We dropped about 750 vertical feet and ran into two, very fit guys that were very close to finishing R2R2R (we weren’t the only crazy ones that day) in just under 24 hours. They were walking zombies – straight out of The Walking Dead. Their eyes were glazed over and they were obviously delirious. I remember thinking… “I wonder why it took them so long to hike this.” Yes – our goal was less than 24 hours, but I thought we’d easily be done in 16 to 18 hours.

Seven miles later we arrive at Phantom Ranch. It was still dark and the stars were brilliant. My feet were not, however. I had begun to develop hot spots on my heels almost immediately after starting down the South Rim. I fixed my feet up a bit and continued along the sandy trail. As we walked through Phantom Ranch, we walked ever so close to a growling bush. I have no idea what creature was making that noise, but did not want to find out!

A few miles outside of Phantom Ranch, the sun was rising and my feet were causing trouble again. At that point, our group had split a second time. Brandon, Lexi and I were the last group of three. We stopped and Brandon doctored my feet once more. I put my shoes back on and began walking. Excruciating pain shot through my feet. Not long after, the pain subsided to a very manageable, dull ache. I was good to go!

We met up with our entire group at Cottonwood Campground – Mary, Brian, Dan, Sean, Brandon, Lexi and me. We were 14 miles into our 42 mile trek and spirits were up. We refueled, purified our water (the pipes were broken and couldn’t use the water stations) and began the long 7 mile hike up the North Rim. The sun was out and we had a long, steep, narrow trail ahead of us. We kept plugging away and began to see the top of Humphrey’s Peak as we looked back across the South Rim. Absolutely stunning. Also stunning was the amount and smell of mule manure that littered the last mile and a half of trail to the North Rim. It really added character to the scenery around us. Lexi and I were slowing down the last bit up to the North Rim and Brandon carried both of our packs, in addition to his, for about a mile. The last mile felt like five, but we made it! Rim to Rim in just over 10 hours.

Now we just had to turn around and do it again… But first, we needed to rest, refuel and doctor my feet. Shoes came off and a few folks start freaking out about the appearance of my feet. I don’t blame them, but I about lost it. It was pretty painful and I fought back tears. After all, I just met these people and wasn’t ready to break down and cry in front of them. At this moment, I questioned whether or not I could make the return trip. I vaguely remember a shuttle might be available to take me back to the South Rim. However, I also told my friends and work colleagues back home that I was doing Rim to Rim to Rim. Obviously, I couldn’t go back after only completing half of the hike. I needed to suck it up. I’m as stubborn as a Grand Canyon mule, possibly even more so. 21 of 42 miles – complete.

See March 15th, 2016 post for the second half of R2R2R!