Rim to Rim to Rim, Death March Part 2 – 42 of 42

See March 12th, 2016 post for R2R2R Part 1.

It’s around noon on June 1st, 2013.  We just completed Rim to Rim in about 10 hours.  Now it was time to hike the last 21 of 42 miles of Rim to Rim to Rim (R2R2R) in the Grand Canyon.  Fighting back tears, I stuffed my swollen, blistered feet back in my boots and started hiking down the North Kaibab Trail. Like I said, I’m as stubborn as a Grand Canyon mule.

I had a dull pain in my feet, but it was bearable. About 7 miles later, we make it back to Cottonwood campground. At this point in the day, it felt like we were literally in an oven. It was a brutal, dry heat.  

I’m moving pretty slow, so I decide to head off towards Box Canyon by myself; the others would be close behind me. Brian and Mary had already taken off as they were tasked with obtaining pizza and beer for the victory dinner. The sun is beginning to set and I’m suddenly all alone. There were people on the trail all day long, but not anymore. My mind suddenly takes a downward spiral and I’m panicking about being lost, about mountain lions, about being alone, and wondering how I’m going to get out of this *&^%* canyon. I hold back tears. I keep looking back, hoping to see my crew, but I’m afraid to stop and wait. And I don’t want to backtrack.

Finally, Sean catches up! A huge wave of relief washes over me. Sean is a talker and just starts rambling. It was just what I needed to get my mind off of what we were doing. He told me Lexi was struggling, and I said I was too. My feet weren’t the issue; mentally, I was losing it. I asked him to PLEASE keep talking. So he did. And then nature called.

Sean had to stop, and he told me to keep moving. I was alone again. It was getting darker and I was entering the Box Canyon. I was certain a snake or other creature would attack me around every corner. At this point, it was a struggle to stay hydrated. I’m sipping fluids and taking salt tablets, but with every step, I’m on the verge of getting sick to my stomach and/or my muscles seizing. I’m fighting waves of nausea, but I have to keep moving. I literally start thinking, “left, right, left, right.” Thinking of anything else was too overwhelming.

It’s dark, and Brandon finally catches up to me. At this point, I’ve resolved to park my happy ass at Phantom Ranch and not move. Brandon tells me we’re almost to the ranch and that we’re going to stop and nap before heading up the South Kaibab Trail. I feel relieved and calm down a bit.

We arrived at Phantom Ranch utterly and completely exhausted. Every step forward was a victory in itself. It was around 9 pm when we walked into the cafe. People were laughing and talking– I felt like I had entered the Twilight Zone. Lexi and I make our way to a table, while the guys buy us bagels, cookies, and lemonade. As we were sitting at the table eating, the gravity of the situation started to hit me. I told Lexi to take a picture of me because I wanted to remember this moment if I ever got the bright idea to do this ridiculous trip again.*

We leave the cafe and make our way to a picnic table just down the trail. Every step, every movement takes a significant amount of effort. Lexi and I collapse on the picnic table, while the guys meet to plan our hike out. There were a million stars in the sky, but we didn’t care. The Grand Canyon had lost its beauty. I would have given anything to have a helicopter fly me out at that moment. I just wanted out of that ridiculously large hole in the ground!!

About 45 minutes later, the guys come and get us. We had the last 7 miles, straight uphill, to go.

I was in and out of my head on the way up, trying to fight back tears and panic, and then calming back down again. The guys took turns telling bad dating stories to distract us. My sense of time was off – 10 minutes felt like an hour. I’m delirious and begin to hallucinate. I see the Little Mermaid on the side of the trail. I feel drunk because of sleep deprivation. Brandon tells me when to eat and drink. I stuff disgusting goos down my throat and then chase them with water. I feel a boost of energy for a few minutes at a time.

I just knew we were almost to the top. And then, to add insult to injury, the sun starts rising on the horizon. For some reason, that really pisses me off. Sean starts talking about filling in the Grand Canyon with trash and turning it into a landfill. I think this is a great idea. Then, we see a whole crowd of boy scouts and their leaders hiking down the trail, laughing and excited about the adventure in front of them. I want to yell at them to “Turn around, it’s not worth it!” But I can’t muster the energy.

At the very end, as a reward for our accomplishment, we are greeted with a huge whiff of fresh mule manure and urine. Perfect way to end the Death March. Dan and I gain a small amount of satisfaction by flipping off the Grand Canyon. It was a fitting farewell to R2R2R 2013.

We made it out. It took us 28 hours to go 42 miles. The last 7 miles took us 6 excruciating, long hours. But we made it. I cannot describe the relief I felt. My feet were pretty messed up. I couldn’t wear shoes for a week (only flip flops) and I had temporary nerve damage. I had blisters upon blisters. One upside – I got to pre-board on Southwest after showing them my feet.

You may be wondering if I’m over exaggerating about my the state of my feet. I’ll let you decide, but be warned: GRAPHIC pictures follow!

This is the aftermath of 42 miles in the Grand Canyon + barely broken-in hiking boots.

R2R2R really shook my confidence. I had never been in a situation in which I had to rely heavily on someone else to get me through safely. I had always been the mentally strong one and encouraged others to keep going. I had a trip to Kilimanjaro planned for February and had already placed my down payment. After R2R2R, I was not sure I wanted to go to Kili. I needed to decide if I was going to keep pushing the edge of my comfort zone or play it safe. For the next few months, I played it safe; I didn’t want to go through that experience again.

As my feet and mind healed, I gained some perspective and learned a lot about myself. It took me a couple of years, but I eventually realized my why – why I get out of bed every morning:

I believe in discovering my full potential, to be better than myself, to challenge my physical and mental limits. I believe in challenging others to discover their potential and push their limits.

A few other things I learned:

1. Wear comfortable trail running shoes. Hiking boots are not an option.
2. Toe socks prevent blisters. I use the brand Injinji.
3. Body glide is key! Apply liberally (especially to feet).
4. Apply Tuff Feet a few weeks in advance. This “toughens” your feet for blister prevention.
5. Nutrition is person-specific. Have a plan for fuel and hydration.
6. Don’t try any new gear or food or drink on the trip.
7. Imodium is clutch. Thanks Mom!
8. Bring Tylenol and caffeine. I prefer Coke-a-cola. I rarely drink caffeine, so I’m like the Energizer Bunny when I do.
9. Hiking poles save your knees for the downhill.
10. Watch out for scorpions. Seriously.
11. Wear a light, synthetic hoody and hat. The sun is brutal.
12. R2R2R is not something to take lightly. It requires a strong mind and strong body.

I also learned that I actually enjoy pain and suffering to some degree. I gain a new level of confidence with every strenuous experience, and I’m more appreciative of everything in my life. My soul yearns for the mental and physical challenge that the day to day routine cannot provide. I’ve realized that it’s okay to take the path less traveled, to go against societal “norm,” and that life really does begin at the end of your comfort zone. Cheers!

 

*At the time, I NEVER thought I would return to the Grand Canyon, much less attempt R2R2R again.  However, I did go back in May of 2015.  R2R2R 2015 was a significantly better experience. My feet happily survived, thanks to Hoka trail shoes, and we shaved about 10 hours off of our previous time. Never say never.

[For great gear advice for ultra-marathons, check out turnthepayge.com]